Choosing slab thickness: 3 / 6 / 9 / 12 / 20 mm

3 mm	Furniture skins & refurbishment overlays. Cabinet doors, elevator cabins, table tops, and laying over existing surfaces. Feather-light; always fully bonded to a backing board — never spans on its own.
6 mm	Wall cladding & feature walls. The large-format wall standard: big visual impact at roughly half the weight of 12 mm. Also used for shower walls and light-duty floors in low-traffic rooms.
9 mm	General flooring. Residential and light commercial floors. Easier to handle than 12 mm, strong enough on a properly prepared, fully-bedded substrate.
12 mm	Countertops & high-traffic floors. The workhorse thickness — kitchen tops, vanity tops, hotel and retail flooring. On countertops it needs continuous support from the cabinet structure; keep unsupported overhangs short and confirm spans with your fabricator.
20 mm	Heavy-duty tops & statement pieces. Commercial counters and anywhere the design calls for a chunky, solid edge profile without a mitred build-up. Heaviest and most expensive to freight — use it where it shows.

Three rules that save money

1. Walls almost never need more than 6 mm

   Above 6 mm you are paying for material and freight that hang on the wall doing nothing. The exception: mechanically-fixed ventilated facades, where the fixing system dictates thickness.

2. Countertop spans decide 12 vs. 20 — not looks

   A supported 12 mm top performs like a 20 mm top. Choose 20 mm for the edge profile or for long unsupported runs, not "for strength" in the abstract.

3. Thinner slabs ship more m² per container

   Freight is charged on crates, and crates are volume. Dropping a wall order from 12 mm to 6 mm can add a third more saleable area to the same container — ask us to quote both ways and compare the landed cost per m².

A note on using this guide: the thicknesses above reflect common practice. Final thickness, support and fixing specifications for your project should be confirmed by your engineer or fabricator.